Mechanical Question?

[rabbitearbandicoot]

my car VZ Commodore has started with a  click-click-click when I try to start it.... it does it 2 or 3 times ... eventually starts after I bless it a few times  .... but I'm worried that eventually it won't ..... so, starter motor? solenoid? 

This had to happen when every mechanic for miles around is on 2-weeks holiday.

[goldenjet16]

I agree with the starter going, if when you go to start the car and you here no click click it's usually the starter. Sometimes to see if it is you can tap the starter with a hammer The brushes are spring loaded and when the spring stretches out it has less tension on the brush. Rapping on the starter allows the brush to move more firmly against the contact. You will still need a new starter.

Just one possibility....

[viewmont1071]

Dunnydores have a high torque starter motor. They more normally manifest when U/S as "the lights are on but nobody is home"

Back in the day click click click usually meant solenoid problems but HT starter motors operate on a little different premise and

pretty well require optimum cranking amps from the battery.

In fact later model dunnydores are infamous re shonky mechanics to diagnose starter motor and then during removal "find" that in

fact the starter motor end of the + battery connection wire  is corroded.

( who would have thought that the wire that joins to the battery posts actually has another end )

the shonks just charge you for the starter motor anyways... whether fitted or not. The honest ones obviously fess up

It is covered by a rubber boot and is a little hard to get to... (for

the avid under bonnet explorer wiggle in and try from underneath)

Did the guy who replaced the battery check the alternator charge rate? If so do you remember the number?

If not then do you own a multi meter?

If the charge rate was/is acceptable.

It is more probable that over time the poor connection helped sap the batteries base charge and then eventually it failed

altogether. A new battery would last afew days before it reaches a low charge state whereby there is not enouygh amps to make

the engine go bang.

If you find corrosion at the + starter motor post them make sure you disconnect the negative terminal before you attempt to clean it.

otherwise a little undesired "welding" may occur.

Alternately If the alternator charge rate is below 13 volts then the alternator  needs servicing or replacement and that caused the

low battery condition.

[this-one-time-at-bandcamp]

Generally speaking, when you have corrosion at either the battery or as previously mentioned, the other end of either cable, the problem doesn't magically cure itself on the second or third attempt to start the vehicle.

I once had a Ford towed into my station with a no-start problem.  When I hooked it up to the diagnostic machine, it started and ran perfectly............I came to find out that the car's ground cable had an open in it, and the ground wire for the machine supplanted it and allowed the car to start.

[serendipityricho]

Happy New Year Dave---think you are onto it.

Had a VZ as a work car and all the starting problems were the keys.

Dosnt hurt to clean the metal ring around the key hole as well.............................Richo.

[viewmont1071]

well in fact yes it does.. If I had 5 cents for every call out re "I just fitted a new battery to my car yesterday and now it will not start

...again" then I would be a rich man.... Oh hold on a minute.... I do get  a little more than 5 cents....... I work as a breakdown mechanic

The increased available cold cranking amps available from the "new" battery is the secret to your conundrum re

" it usually does not fix itself."

[this-one-time-at-bandcamp]

You probably should reread the OP.........she said she would attempt to start it and it would click.  She would try it several times, and it would eventually start.  Corrosion increases resistance, the more often one tries to run current through that resistance, the available voltage (and current) drops.......

I've been an ASI certified mechanic for over 30 years.

[viewmont1071]

---

@this-one-time-at-bandcamp wrote:

As far as the old battery goes, there are two states of charge, you can have a 100% charged battery.........until you apply a draw, then the battery may drop to its permanent state.

A few months ago, I had a starting problem, took it to two Les Schwab stores, and received a plethora of recommendations, none of which struck me as viable.  Took it the next week to the dealer, and discovered that the 2 year old battery had a dead cell.

---

Then I have done you re acreditation by 5 years... ie since1979. I have taught at tafe since the late 90's

I wondered (given your status) why you do not trust your own diagnosis but prefer Les Schwabs or the dealers?

A battery that is 100% charged is wait for it 100% charged. 

abattery that reads 13.5 volts on a multimeter is not neccisarily 100% charged

A battery that has lost its base charge will never ever get it back  (ie lights left on etc)  just through the alternator .

It requires  recharging witha two stage battery charger to service it to allow maximum  cold cranking amps.

Thr corrosion that is caused at the starter motor end of the wire is minimal. The constant application of 6 or 700 cca through

winding the key numerous times thus causing the click click click sound also causes heat

... especially with the new you beaut battery.... the heat causes the green residue to "soften" and the elecktrickety and the amps

find their path. When you find a car with this condition not only do you find the green gunk you also find black carbon tracks where

the new battery caused sparks and hence the heat................ 

[joz*garage]

it is the alternator, hey view

i sensed it & i was right, not bad for a back yardy 😄

[this-one-time-at-bandcamp]

I wondered (given your status) why you do not trust your own diagnosis but prefer Les Schwabs or the dealers?

I retired from mechanicing in 1987, the year I had a heart attack........my accreditation ceased in 1996........but, oddly enough, Ohm's Law hasn't changed since then.

Without instrumentation, one can't accurately interpret problems.........I knew my problem was battery related, not ignition or starter, simply because one attempt to start would zero out my information readouts.  I actually went to Les Schwab to confirm my diagnosis, but they offered such solutions as, "Your battery is fine, but we'll sell you a new one".........to "You have a parasitic draw that's discharging your battery, probably the radio".........

[serendipityricho]

Hi Joe--im going with Viewmonts--end of the battery cable on the starter motor.

Rabbit--when you get the car sorted out-let us know the outcome......................Richo.