Errrr, this may help you hear things from afar.......................
I tried to persuade the lens with varying amounts of force, but then I figured I had nothing to lose by giving it a good hard whack with a blunt object.
I heard a click so I pressed the power button, and the lens started functioning as normal - I think I knocked some sense out of it though, because some settings / functions appear to be missing. (As long as I can take no-flash macro images for a little while longer, I'll muddle on 😄 ).
I'm Col - Dazzles partner and a former prof photographer.
Digi, I'm afraid your lens is now on borrowed time!
Although I don't know what sort of products you sell and am unable to assess what level of macro you need there are a couple of points I should make to you:
My recommendation would be a DSLR but at the simpler end with a close focus zoom lens.
Macro lenses are Very expensive and Always fixed focus - never zoom (except maybe the Canon MPS which is a very odd beast)
All of the so called "macro" zoom lenses you'll see are in reality just close focus (including the one you are using now).
I'd be inclined to go for a cheap low usage second hand Canon EOS 300D, 350D or 400D - ideally the lowest pixel count is best.
Here's something from eBay:
EOS 300D kit (about $300)
The reasoning in this is that it's not so much about the number of pixels as their size.
Bigger pixels = less noise hence a better low light result.
I once compared a 300D with a 5D (full frame pro body around $2500 at the time without lens ) and you know what?
There was not much discernable difference in images shot on the same L series lenses.
There was a very good twin lens kit that was/is sold with the entry level Canon DSLR's that has the 18-55 zoom plus the 75-300 tele lens.
They both have a closeup functionality and the tele, which has a macro (read close focus) at 300mm is actually very good (I once used one to photograph bees with quite good results).
Even the 18-55 will focus down to round 250mm at the 55mm end of its range which should be close enough for most.
The thing with these cameras is that they are actually very tough little buggers capable of sveral hundred thousand shutter cycles so unless you drop it, it should last you for years.
Start with the automatic settings and as you learn move on to the more advanced ones.
You'll find it all rather fun once you get into it.
@dazzledayz wrote:I'm Col - Dazzles partner and a former prof photographer.
Digi, I'm afraid your lens is now on borrowed time!
Although I don't know what sort of products you sell and am unable to assess what level of macro you need there are a couple of points I should make to you:
My recommendation would be a DSLR but at the simpler end with a close focus zoom lens.
Macro lenses are Very expensive and Always fixed focus - never zoom (except maybe the Canon MPS which is a very odd beast)
All of the so called "macro" zoom lenses you'll see are in reality just close focus (including the one you are using now).
Hi Col, thank you very much for your post, I really appreciate it. 🙂
If you don't mind me providing a bit more info and so forth, just in case it helps or changes anything - my items range in size from 1.5mm to... well, much bigger than that, but I use the macro setting on almost all of them because most of the time I'm trying to capture fine detail on craft supplies, accessories and jewellery. (The really tiny things aren't photographed individually, though, there's probably a few hundred in the shot).
A lot of the stuff is silver tone, which I have plenty of difficulties on that alone with both black or white backgrounds, all other colours look terrible, too, plus anything shiny, sparkly or transparent / translucent gives me problems, to be honest (especially translucent pink - that is a real nightmare! 😮 ), and at least one of those descriptions actually applies to about 70% of my stuff 😮 ), but the main reason I favoured a compact point n' shoot is I didn't have to learn anything new 😄 (or maybe 
is more appropriate ) A lot of my stuff is very time consuming to make, which is somewhat influencing my choices or preferences (in so far as my limited knowledge / experience allows) - I used to have enough time most days for a decent photo session during the day, then to edit and list products in the evening, but now I have less time to have photograph sessions, and most evenings I spend occupied with making the orders I'm posting out the next day, so if I can keep all photo-related work to a minimum while still producing good shots, I'd be one very happy little camper.
Based on that, would your recommendation be the same? (Or the short verion: I am stubbornly reluctant to change my ingrained habits or move outside of my comfort zone, but if a DSLR can be just as (or almost as) easy and intuitive to use as a compact, as well as improve my shots on these kinds of items, I can most likely be swayed ).
@padi, that reminds me of the first mobile phone my aunt had I was kinda hoping it was literally a giant tuba, though. ^_^
@digital*ghost wrote:
@dazzledayz wrote:I'm Col - Dazzles partner and a former prof photographer.
Digi, I'm afraid your lens is now on borrowed time!
Although I don't know what sort of products you sell and am unable to assess what level of macro you need there are a couple of points I should make to you:
My recommendation would be a DSLR but at the simpler end with a close focus zoom lens.
Macro lenses are Very expensive and Always fixed focus - never zoom (except maybe the Canon MPS which is a very odd beast)
All of the so called "macro" zoom lenses you'll see are in reality just close focus (including the one you are using now).
Hi Col, thank you very much for your post, I really appreciate it. 🙂
If you don't mind me providing a bit more info and so forth, just in case it helps or changes anything - my items range in size from 1.5mm to... well, much bigger than that, but I use the macro setting on almost all of them because most of the time I'm trying to capture fine detail on craft supplies, accessories and jewellery. (The really tiny things aren't photographed individually, though, there's probably a few hundred in the shot).
A lot of the stuff is silver tone, which I have plenty of difficulties on that alone with both black or white backgrounds, all other colours look terrible, too, plus anything shiny, sparkly or transparent / translucent gives me problems, to be honest (especially translucent pink - that is a real nightmare! 😮 ), and at least one of those descriptions actually applies to about 70% of my stuff 😮 ), but the main reason I favoured a compact point n' shoot is I didn't have to learn anything new 😄 (or maybe
Based on that, would your recommendation be the same? (Or the short verion: I am stubbornly reluctant to change my ingrained habits or move outside of my comfort zone, but if a DSLR can be just as (or almost as) easy and intuitive to use as a compact, as well as improve my shots on these kinds of items, I can most likely be swayed
@padi, that reminds me of the first mobile phone my aunt had
Hi Digi, Col again.
I don't think your subject matter changes my view; it only confirms it.
The things you are trying to shoot are challenging for quite experienced photographers.
Also, the problems you are having with colour rendition point to the necessity of a DSLR as you have the ability with these to set up the cameras internal raw conversion to better deal with difficult colours and to change saturation levels and also to use custom settings for special circumstances.
Even more, you will have the ability to control remote flashheads (should you need) and to also use remote capture (which enables the saving of an image direct to your computer hard drive.
BUt most importantly, you will get to shoot raw files (uncorrected sensor output) which gives you very wide scope to post process any images that are proving troublesome.
If you could post (or PM) a link to one of your listings it would give me a better idea of what you need.
Having said that though, a few ideas immediately spring to mind:
Whether or not you go DSLR you definitely need an light tent ... Light Tent
The fourth pic in this listing shows the front screen with the slit you shoot through (this kills reflections).
You can, at a pinch, even set these up in open shade and use daylight (say near a window) but usually you would use ativicial lighting either continuous or flash.
Whatever camera you finish up buying, make sure it has an eaccesory screw beneath to attach a tripod and the ability to accept a cable release (reduces camera shake) which is particularly important for macro style close up work (of course this implies you would need to be getting a tripod sooner rather than later).
If you decide DSLR's are all a bit much the minimum I'd be looking at is something like this Powershot G9 as it has most of the DSLR functions including raw (but importantly no lens interchangeability).
You'll probably notice I favour Canon but there is a reason - they are a bit more newbie friendly than Nikon and they also throw in all the software you'll need like Digitl Photo Professional for handling raw file post process as well as the aforesaid Remote Capture.
I'd be quite happy to help you along with setup advice if you wish to get serious about about doing some good product photography.
