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4 ACCEPTED SOLUTIONS
Accepted Solutions
I used to use best offer quite a lot for clothes - pre-owned, one-offs, anyway, mostly because I liked to keep them turning over as quickly as possibe. NWT stuff I just set a price, then adjusted the price if I saw fit, or had a sale... but, otherwise, I used it because I had an ideal (preferred) price range, but was willing to negotiate because the longer it sat around, the less I valued it 
(as another example, say I got something really cheap and valued it at $100, and by "valued", I mean that would be a good sell price on eBay, so I'll list it at $100, but be prepared to take less if I couldn't get that). I tended to allow a 10-20% discount range, and would alway counter-offer rather than accept outright if the offer was decent but still on the lower end of the scale.
The other thing was, sometimes I listed clothing for auction expecting it to go for around $15-20 and it would sell for $50, so best offer kind of takes that principle and allows buyer and seller to come to a mutually beneficial deal outside of the auction process. That is, no bidding war blowing out the price for the buyer, but the seller can value higher than an auction start price, sell lower than asking price, and still get a good outcome (i.e. better than a 1-bidder auction).
And sometimes a seller just wants to see how the market is valuing their goods.
In the end, I stopped using best offer because most people who wanted an item just bought it, which indicated to me that by and large, my pricing was pretty spot-on when it came to actually selling them. (I still have a couple of clearance type items with best offer enabled - BIN price is either just above or just below cost, but I will consider other offers just to get them outta here. 😄
Just to put forward another point of view, which involves totally different items, so a slightly different perspective.
I know there are some who may not agree with this, (lol, I know there are certainly buyers who don't like it, which is unfortunate), but as I sell low value items, I have it on all my listings to try and encourage buyers who may be interested in buying multiples of a certain item or several different items. So if I get a very low offer for just one single item, I send a counter offer (usually with a tiny discount) and add a note explaining. Quite often they will then accept my counter offer and go on to make more reasonable offers on several items. So it works very well for me. I actually have a customer at the moment who made a low offer on an item, I counter offered and explained & she has since gone ahead and made offers on around 60 items !
I have also had buyers message with a list of items they would like to buy & ask, would you accept $*** for these ? So it does seem to plant that seed that you are negotiable 
I like best offer as a buyer and a seller 
I think your settings for the best offer example spacetomatoes is fine.
As I list through inkfrog and am trialling a beta lister at the moment I am currently unable to add it to my listings, or otherwise I would have on more, as I have always done very, very well with best offer particularly for higher priced goods close to and over $100.
I used to use best offer quite a lot for clothes - pre-owned, one-offs, anyway, mostly because I liked to keep them turning over as quickly as possibe. NWT stuff I just set a price, then adjusted the price if I saw fit, or had a sale... but, otherwise, I used it because I had an ideal (preferred) price range, but was willing to negotiate because the longer it sat around, the less I valued it (as another example, say I got something really cheap and valued it at $100, and by "valued", I mean that would be a good sell price on eBay, so I'll list it at $100, but be prepared to take less if I couldn't get that). I tended to allow a 10-20% discount range, and would alway counter-offer rather than accept outright if the offer was decent but still on the lower end of the scale.
The other thing was, sometimes I listed clothing for auction expecting it to go for around $15-20 and it would sell for $50, so best offer kind of takes that principle and allows buyer and seller to come to a mutually beneficial deal outside of the auction process. That is, no bidding war blowing out the price for the buyer, but the seller can value higher than an auction start price, sell lower than asking price, and still get a good outcome (i.e. better than a 1-bidder auction).
And sometimes a seller just wants to see how the market is valuing their goods.
In the end, I stopped using best offer because most people who wanted an item just bought it, which indicated to me that by and large, my pricing was pretty spot-on when it came to actually selling them. (I still have a couple of clearance type items with best offer enabled - BIN price is either just above or just below cost, but I will consider other offers just to get them outta here. 😄
