URGENT: Another Mechanical Question?

[rabbitearbandicoot]

Mazda Eunos 1.8lt V6 - trying to undo the crank bolt - of course using ordinary socket it just spins the engine - can't get at the flywheel to wedge it - mechanic told me to use a rattle gun with the relivant shatter proof socket of course - 21mm. So bought a rattle gun and sockets.

Tried several times - it makes a noise but doesn't move the bolt.

Question: would this bolt be normal thread or reverse thread?

[rabbitearbandicoot]

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@serendipityricho wrote:

Rabbit-you didnt mention that before.

Like most of your -mechanical help threads--info comes out during the thread.

Good luck fixing it.................................Richo.

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sorry, I guess it was in my mind about the other thread and I wrongly assumed that everyone would remember it too 

http://community.ebay.com.au/t5/Community-Spirit/Mechanical-Tech-Question/m-p/1744072#M482215

NB I can't try the starter method because the car is up on jacks - well, I suppose I could but it's a long way off the ground.

[rabbitearbandicoot]

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@this-one-time-at-bandcamp wrote:

Every crank bolt I have ever encountered was normal thead........try soaking it in WD-40 overnight.  What size pneumatic gun are you using, and what is the air pressure?

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I just went down and priced a gun with more torque - 1250nm - that would probably do the job - but I don't think I can justify $350 for what may turn out to be just 2 uses. I'll try the starter motor mehod - if I disappear off the threads you'll know I am under my car.

[rabbitearbandicoot]

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@rabbitearbandicoot wrote:

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@this-one-time-at-bandcamp wrote:

Every crank bolt I have ever encountered was normal thead........try soaking it in WD-40 overnight.  What size pneumatic gun are you using, and what is the air pressure?

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I just went down and priced a gun with more torque - 1250nm - that would probably do the job - but I don't think I can justify $350 for what may turn out to be just 2 uses. I'll try the starter motor mehod - if I disappear off the threads you'll know I am under my car.

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Just been thinking about this in between jobs - I'll need to rentension the bolts after I finish so how do I do that - especially if I use the starter motor method to loosen it?

[this-one-time-at-bandcamp]

Is there any place where a heavier duty impact wrench can be rented?  Before I attempted to use the starter to break that bolt loose, I would investigate every other option, including the aforementioned  WD-40.  

[rabbitearbandicoot]

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@this-one-time-at-bandcamp wrote:

Is there any place where a heavier duty impact wrench can be rented?  Before I attempted to use the starter to break that bolt loose, I would investigate every other option, including the aforementioned  WD-40.  

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Yes. Thanks. I have given it a good dose of WD40 and I'll let it soak over night and have another go. I might even give it a gentle tap with a rubber mallet.

[colic2bullsgirlore]

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@rabbitearbandicoot wrote:

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@serendipityricho wrote:

Rabbit-you didnt mention that before.

Like most of your -mechanical help threads--info comes out during the thread.

Good luck fixing it.................................Richo.

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sorry, I guess it was in my mind about the other thread and I wrongly assumed that everyone would remember it too 

http://community.ebay.com.au/t5/Community-Spirit/Mechanical-Tech-Question/m-p/1744072#M482215

NB I can't try the starter method because the car is up on jacks - well, I suppose I could but it's a long way off the ground.

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NB I generally use the Monman starter method on a 4 post hoist....so you must own a bloody tall jack.... or an extremely short breaker bar.

Hint: just turn the bolt around clockwise with the breaker bar until it jams on something ie. lower control arm, firewall or

K frame (not the radiator or the tie rods) then bump crank the engine which will turn the crank clockwise. As MM said the socket and b/bar will hold the bolt head still and voila

I have a 3/4 drive double electric motor rattle gun that punches out about 1500nm... to the non mechanics that means that I generally need two fat blokes holding onto either leg when I squeeze the trigger or I will turn into a helicopter,

I use that on bigger engines coupled to a torque multiplier generally on larger earthmoving equipment with inch drive

sockets.

I trust that you are fitting the full kit and also changing the water pump?? ( not 100% sure on KE but I would reckon the timing belt also drives the water pp and water pp seizure is a common cause of belt breakage)

Check for balance shaft positioning procedure

[colic2bullsgirlore]

You can't always trust what is written in these reports...so just keep in mind that generally something else other than old age makes a timing belt break altogether, jump belt teeth or remove belt teeth.

If I get a chance I will have a look in the timing belt bible when I get back to the shed.

http://www.motoring.com.au/advice/2007/small-passenger/eunos/30x/used-car-advice-eunos-mazda-30x-cou...

The two biggest causes of cam belt failure. Seized cam bearings and seized water pp bearings

Although tiny, the all-aluminium 1.8-litre V6 is as complex as a Ferrari with 24 valves, four camshafts and fine oil galleries so it won't tolerate skipped oil changes or cheap oil.

Sludged oil galleries starve the camshafts of oil which can then seize and destroy the heads at huge cost.

Cylinder head closest to front is first to fail from oil starvation as it's furthest from oil pump so listen for early warning signs such as clattery valve gear or noisy lifters from not getting enough oil pressure

Cam belt is important 100,000km maintenance item as valves and pistons can collide if it breaks while being revved. Water pump driven by cam belt usually fails at 120,000km for repeat labour bill so best replaced at each belt change.

[this-one-time-at-bandcamp]

Cam belt is important 100,000km maintenance item as valves and pistons can collide if it breaks while being revved.

It has already been determined that the engine in question is a non-interference type.......  I had a lady in a Dodge van (318 motor) decelerate coming off the freeway exit where my station was........her timing chain jumped about 10 teeth as it stretched.  Examination of the chain showed it actually hung below the crank gear, and none of the teeth engaged at all.  Engine was OK though.

[colic2bullsgirlore]

the info below the URL in my post above is a copy and paste from that site hence the disclaimer on the top line of the post

The timing belt "bible" has been written from a practical point of view rather than a theoretical point of view....ie....

It lists engines as interference engines that manufacturers do not list as interference because wait for it... the proof

comes after the strip.

With these Mazda engines lack of lubrication maintenance often causes the VV spring to break/VV collets to shear

... the VV drops and belts the piston then jams the rotation and the timing belt being the weakest link breaks

... all quad cam engines are prone to the same non interference.... interference...

[this-one-time-at-bandcamp]

By that token, dropping a nut down a carb can make a non-interference engine into an interference one.  I had a friend break a camshaft at 7000 rmp in a 465 Rat motor......the two lobes that ended up bouncing around the interior of the motor certainly interfered with it........